Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Biking Bujumbura Map



While biking in Bujumbura's hills on my trusty Specialized mountain bike, I've been trying to keep track of where I go and how I got there.  And since I enjoy making an amateur map now and then, and because I also enjoy sharing information that helps others discover a place, I'm posting my most recently updated amateur map of Bujumbura hill biking.


(If you want a closer look, this posted photo being too small to see much, email me or leave a comment and I will send you a bigger jpeg file that you can enlarge for particulars.  The red print gives times to major ride points, starting from the city.)


Since I like to climb, on most of my rides I pick an entry point and ride up into the hills outside Bujumbura.  For doing distance, and seeing lots of countryside, I have biked the paved national routes to both Bugarama and Ijenda.  Both take about three hours (almost all of it a fairly tough slog up), and aren't too bad with traffic, though the road to Bugarama is definitely the busier of the two.  Along the way you can admire the local bicyclists hurtling past you, as they either cling to the back of a truck going up or turn their bicycle into a truck bringing huge mounds of bananas down.


My map shows both of these paved routes, and the hill area in between them.  The most interesting riding from Bujumbura is, I think, in this in-between hill area, which is most easily and centrally accessed by taking the loop road up through Kiriri then continuing past Chez Vaya and on up to the hillside university.  At the university the paved road turns to dirt and leads to hours of exploring on rural roads.


Though there are lots of single-track type trails visible on the hillsides, most of them are un-rideable: these are walking paths and are too steep or too sketchy to bike.  The adventurer can find some sections of doable single-track, however.


For the best single-track ride available from Bujumbura, instead of continuing past Chez Vaya toward the university, turn left just before the restaurant.  When the paved road ends, break free onto a dirt track that increasingly looks more like a hiking trail and less like a dirt road.  There's one big dip of a bridge that's fun to ride and then a couple of 'portages' (have to carry your bike across a ravine) as you wind up the side of a canyon, cross the main streambed, then double back to climb the opposite slope.


Entering a small town you reach a dirt road.  From here you can drift back down to the city.  Or, to continue the ride, go uphill on the dirt road for maybe five minutes.  Just past a right-hand bend, turn left on a fairly obvious trail that cuts across a ridge-slope rising in front of you.  From here you are following an old water channel.  When arriving at a trail intersection, always choose the way that continues gradually uphill with the climbing ridge on your right and the valley opening on your left.  On this section there are numerous 'portages' as well where you will need to carry your bike across a ravine, but there's enough open trail in between to make the ride worth it.  After about an hour the trail ends at a dirt road, as shown on the map.  You can do this trail either uphill or down, taking the dirt road one way if you wish to make a loop.


If you are a downhill fan, a technically proficient rider can have fun checking out numerous trails off the road up above the university, with varying degrees of steepness and technicality available.  Drop off the road into the valley to the left on whatever rideable track you can find, then meet up with the 'Chez Vaya/water channel trail,' that I just described, to get back to town.


When trail-riding outside Bujumbura, always take care for pedestrians: remember the trails are there for the locals to get from place to place.  You are a guest on their foot-highway.


And if you are an ingenious explorer, I'm sure you'll have more rides to add to my map in no time.



Monday, February 1, 2010

Climbing the 'Collines'


On Friday I went for a ride in the collines, or hills, just outside Bujumbura.  While I am often, on these rides, driven to get in as many kilometers as possible, this time I gave priority to my camera lens.  And so, here's some photos.


Up the paved road from my hillside house, this national monument looks out over the city and exhorts Burundians to the communal goods of "unity, work, and progress."



This juxtaposition of Coke and corn at a beer-and-soda container store made me pull over.  Coke (along with a few other sodas) is one of the few locally-manufactured products available in Burundi.  Corn, along with other vegetables, often grows roadside as city residents try to augment their meager livings.



The "Donnez moi l'argent!" or give-me-money culture is firmly entrenched here, and any adult, when asked for a photo, is more than likely to respond with the phrase.  Since I didn't want to give these ladies any money, I snapped their bright umbrellas - a common and colorful protection from near-equatorial sun - instead.



This little guy, walking up the hill barefoot with a sack balanced on his head, kept catching up to me as I frequently stopped pedaling to take photos of the ever-expanding view.  The irony of taking his portrait in front of the university (background) that he will likely never be able to attend was not lost on me.



Here he is again as we both climb the dirt roads (the route goes from paved to dirt at the university) above Bujumbura into vibrant green hills dotted with houses and covered with sloping fields of cassava, bananas, lettuce, tomatoes, peanuts.



This girl gnaws on a bit of cassava root (like a yam, sort of) as she and her friends head up the road to get some water from the closest faucet.  I was a bit nervous to stop for her photo, but with the rock balanced on her head (I have no idea what for) I overcame my clicking inhibitions and snapped away.



This dilapidated house atop a knoll is about a 55 minute climb by mountain bike up from the city.  I call it the "ruined castle," and wouldn't mind renovating it and living out my days there.



Stopping in a hill town (I think it's called Muyera, the only sign says 'Centre de Sante Kavumo') for a refreshing lemon Fanta, I got this guy to take a photo of me.  In return, he let me snap one of him.



Outside the town, a woman prepares a hillside field for planting.



From Muyera, I took a hard right back toward Bujumbura onto an increasingly unimproved mountain road.  It took me through beautiful stream canyons...



...on sections no longer useable by motor vehicles.  When it came time for a very dilapidated bridge crossing, these school kids showed me how to walk the plank with no fear.



This woman was one of the few adults who gave me permission to photograph her, and so I snapped with glee.



Too soon I was back to the paved road (the road to Ijenda, for you locals, at about the 10 kilometer marker), zooming downhill toward the city and the lake.



And to end the photo essay: there's nothing like a locally-made Fanta Citron to keep the legs going on a long ride.